Last week, I drove too far past Cafe Degas on Esplanade and had to find a place to turn around. Things can get kind of hinky street-wise around the bayou (translation: I get lost), so I hurriedly took a right on Verna Street, made the block and came back around on Leda. I suddenly slowed my car to a crawl. Rising up on the left-hand side of the street was the most peculiar mansion, one whose architecture stood out drastically from the shotguns and craftsman-style homes that had obviously been built up around it.
Pulling over, I grabbed my camera and got out of the car. As I neared the large, wrought-iron fence surrounding the house, I spotted an ornate iron sign naming the structure as the Luling Mansion.
There was one particular feature of the house that had me confused...it had a back. It's this grand mansion with balconies, balustrades and tall arched windows but only on three sides! Was the rear of the mansion facing some kind of wall? A line of trees perhaps? It just looks so bizarre because when you approach the building by car, the first part you see of it is the back, this large flat, stone wall with a small wrought iron balcony on the second floor with stairs leading to the ground. Perhaps I'm showing my ignorance (it certainly wouldn't be the first time), but is this a common feature of Italianate architecture?
Regardless of this oddity, I still think the mansion is stunning and perhaps just a wee bit creepy, which totally works for me. After all, Florence Luling spent a small fortune in 1865 (approximately $25,000) hiring the top architectural firm Gallier & Esterbrook to design and build his family home only to lose his two sons shortly after the house was finished. His boys drowned in the nearby Bayou St. John.
Luling later sold the mansion in 1871 to the Louisiana Jockey Club for $60,000.
One historian waxed romantic, calling the mansion "one of the most beautiful places in the country." He praised the grounds, vistas and landscape...not to mention the lavish parties held by the Louisiana Jockey Club featuring hundreds of Chinese lanterns. I could imagine how grand this house was in its heyday with grounds fronting Esplanade Avenue and two smaller buildings adjacent to the main house.
In the Bay Area there is a house called The Carolands that reminds me of the Luling Mansion, creepy history and all. Only to get to it, you have to navigate narrow winding roads through the hills. I can't tell you how many times I got lost just trying to find it.
Maybe here in New Orleans, getting lost is the key.
Could you imagine knowing the luxury of dining in a restaurant where you are served seven courses of culinary art, each dish an original masterpiece? Have you ever dared to dream of epicurean nirvana, where a chef's heavenly creations enable sensory bliss? Do you have the financial wherewithal to make this dream a reality by visiting Chef Scott Boswell's famous Stella! Restaurant?
I don't. But I can afford to visit Boswell's Stanley Restaurant in Jackson Square.
My weight was going down pretty steadily for a while, but this last week I have had more difficulty sticking to the "plan." Surprisingly, my willpower has held out in regards to quitting smoking (going on 4 1/2 months now!), but I'm one of those people who eat when they get anxious or depressed and it seems like life has really been sticking it to me lately. I realize this isn't a good excuse for a lapse, it's just an explanation. At any rate, I gained four pounds this week and probably don't deserve to cheat at all...but I did anyway.
John had to go into to work on Thursday, so we decided to drive downtown a few hours beforehand and enjoy lunch in the French Quarter. It was a hot, sunny day and a simple stroll from the car through Jackson Square became a sweaty affair. I couldn't help heaving a sigh of relief when we finally stepped inside the cool restaurant. The fans were spinning lazily and blessed air conditioning slapped us full in the face as we selected a table near the window looking out towards the square.
After trying to decide between breakfast and lunch (Eggs Benedict Po-Boy anyone?), we placed our order and watched the people-parade from the window. Our server brought out our drinks and my senses slowly returned as I sipped on the deliciously cool beverage. We couldn't help but select a couple of Italian Sodas and John chose blood-orange while I opted for watermelon. Both were perfect, not too sweet and ice cold.
Although it was hot outside, I had to order a small bowl of gumbo and I am so glad I did. Flavored with a dark roux, Stanley's gumbo included P&J oysters, chicken, Gulf shrimp and andouille sausage. Now, I don't usually like seafood in gumbo, it has a tendency to be overcooked and chewy. This time I was not disappointed. The shrimp was the perfect texture and yet they still managed to soak up the rich, nutty flavor of the roux. John and I made quick work of the gumbo, soaking up the last drops with fresh sliced French bread.
Soon after we finished, our entrees arrived and it was difficult to restrain ourselves as we snapped photos for this blog. We both had opted for lunch items; John chose the Big Stanley Burger, I ordered New Orleans' Best Reuben and we also got a side of onion rings to share.
As it turns out, New Orleans' Best Reuben could very easily live up to its name. I used to make Reubens frequently in my own home, but they never tasted quite like this. Corned beef and pastrami draped with both Provolone and Swiss cheeses, grilled sauerkraut and Russian dressing on toasted rye bread. The Reuben at Stein's Deli is the only version to come close to what I devoured at Stanley. I would have to compare them side-by-side to select a winner...what a lunch that would be!
John's burger was also very tasty, although I though it odd that the server didn't ask how he wanted it cooked. 10 ounces of Angus beef topped with two slices of American cheese, three strips of bacon and Stanley's "Special Sauce" made for a quite memorable and juicy burger. Both of our sandwiches were so large, we were only able to finish half, but the fresh, crispy onion rings were unable to escape our ardor.
We saved half of our sandwiches for later on purpose. You see, although Stanley serves some pretty excellent meals, in essence the restaurant styles itself as an old fashioned malt shop. So you can understand why we desperately wanted to save some room for dessert...especially the house made ice cream.
We agreed on the Stanley Split, which is basically a banana split featuring fresh berries (strawberries and blueberries), chocolate sauce and three scoops of Stanley's own Chunky Chartres ice cream. The house made scoops were full of chocolate chips and walnuts making a spoonful of ice cream feel like so much more than a mouthful, but we still finished the dessert with ease.
Even though I am financially unable to enjoy dining at a stellar restaurant like Stella!, I am glad that I possess enough cash to sample Boswell's cuisine at Stanley and that's good enough for me.
Despite the obvious fact that there are dog lovers all over the city of New Orleans (and the world for that matter), there are depressingly few places we can take them. Sure, we can take them to the park or to the levee, but how many establishments out there are legitimate fans of man's best friend?
There is one bar I know of that actually encourages patrons to bring along their four-legged pals...the Bridge Lounge.
Located on the corner of Erato and Magazine Streets, the Bridge Lounge is unassuming and casual with sparse decor and low lights. A long, granite bar stretches along the right wall while black tables and chairs are scattered throughout the remaining space. Also, perhaps to display the bar owner's passion for pooches, framed black & white photographs of dogs adorn the walls wherever there's available space.
For those dog owners concerned about accidents, the bar floor is painted concrete, so you'll have no worries and easy cleanup of any possible mishaps. Additionally, with the usual sweltering summers we experience, the stone floor and bar only make for cooler temperatures, a definite plus for any overheated customer.
I had already heard rumors of the delicious mojitos featured at the Bridge Lounge, but I was in the mood for something a little different. From several large chalkboard menus I selected one of their signature drinks, the Porch Swing, doesn't that sound refreshing on a hot summer day?
Well, it certainly was! Described as a "homemade lemonade and ginger ale mix," the Porch Swing offered a crisp and cooling experience with muddled cucumber, Pims, lemonade, Hendrix Gin and ginger ale. After finishing this tall refreshment, I could see myself sitting on a porch swing watching the world go by...which could either mean I'm insane or simply feeling the effects of my sublime bartender's heavy handed pour.
When I drained the last delicious drops from my icy glass, the bartender (and soon to be owner) Max Chesney, graciously suggested I try another special cocktail from the chalkboard called St. Germain's Infirmary. Although this might sound dangerous considering my earlier hallucinations, I decided to take the risk. At any rate, I knew a concoction prepared with St.Germain's Elderflower Liquor could only be another fantastic drinking experience.
Made with peach bitters, house made sour mix, St. Germain Elderflower Liquor, a splash of orange juice and some New Amsterdam Gin, the St. Germaine's Infirmary packed an herbal infused punch along with the sweet taste of summer fruit. While sipping, I turned around on my bar stool and watched as a sudden, summertime downpour drove more customers inside. Someone once told me it was good luck to see rain and sunshine at the same time and I couldn't help but feel fortuitous while relaxing at the Bridge Lounge.
The rain stopped almost as suddenly as it started and I was forced to take my leave. Unfortunately, I had to leave my dog Pippin at home and he desperately needed to go for a walk since I'd been gone most of the day. Next time, I'll just bring my sweet shih-tzu with me and we can both take our ease together. Maybe Max will even hang Pippin's photograph on the doggie wall of fame? I will have to go back for a few more drinks and find out...
Known globally from famous photographs taken in her own flamboyantly vivid MardiGras costumes, Michelle Levine is more than just one of New Orleans' most recognized characters. She's an incredible artist who is not only enthusiastic about her work, she is excited about anyone who is excited about art. Michelle's devotion and energy to organizing a venue to help promote other local artists is evident in her recent advancement to head of the Arts Market of New Orleans held in Palmer Park the last Saturday of every month.
It goes without saying that the costumes Michelle has designed for the Mondo Kayo accurately embraces the frolicking image of the Carnivalesque parade that rolls at the crack of dawn every MardiGras Day, but did you know how incredibly cool Michelle Levine is? I do!
Earlier this evening, Michelle hosted an opening exhibit of her latest collection at Cafe Degas, a cozy French restaurant tucked into a screen of foliage on Esplanade Avenue. I was finally able to meet this polite yet vivacious artist and talk a little about her latest series. Entitled "Pillars," each of Levine's pieces featured a tall salt cellar with bright, colorful backgrounds and highly reflective tops. It was precisely those reflections that drew me to this collection.
Apparently, I am not alone. Michelle admitted her fascination with the shapes and colors created inside the reflection and confessed a growing obsession for this unique subject. "I keep walking by this pot in my kitchen, analyzing the angle of the reflection," she said, offering her selfless smile. In her search for other mirror-like objects, she told me of a garbage can that she can take anywhere and capture its reflection on canvas. I can't wait to see how her ideas flesh out...
Although I desperately wished I could have stayed for dinner (moules-frites!), it wasn't my cheat night and I had lots left to do when I got home. Currently, Michelle also has another exhibition on display featuring depictions of different McDonald's Restaurant signs ravaged by Hurricane Katrina now showing at the Convergence Center on Canal.
I look forward to seeing more work by Michelle in the future and perhaps, in 2011, I will finally be able to see her costumes firsthand when at last I can wake up early enough on MardiGras Day to witness Mondo Kayo and Zulu for the very first time.
